A bit of explanation: Malin Head is the very top of Ireland. The start line is where they begin a bicycle race that goes the length of the country. The term ’80 Eire’ was painted during the war to tell German planes that this was neutral Ireland and not to bomb.
Just above is one of Ireland’s iconic lighthouses.
Below is how the rich lived in olden days.
Above are several millenia old ceremonial and burial remains. Perhaps they will put my remains here?
Continuing on with my discussion of the ‘Troubles,’ this time from the place where the fighting started. This is Derry, as the Catholics call it, or Londonderry which is preferred by the other side.
When Irish independence was declared (won in hard fought battles) in 1921, Derry was included in Northern Ireland despite having a majority Catholic population. The rules were such that the Protestants held local control for decades, setting up the seeds of future conflict.
Historically, it was a walled city, the walls of older times yet standing which is rare indeed. One moment in the Catholic-Protestant divide occurred around 1698. The deposed Catholic King of England (James II) was fighting to take back his throne. As he approached Derry, a group of (Protestant) apprentice boys hurried to close the gate and raise the alarm with the iconic call of NO SURRENDER!
A long seige ensued with resulted in the deaths of 7,000 of the 20,000 trapped inside the wall. James eventually left and was defeated by William of Orange (his son-in-law) at the Battle of the Boyne, thus ensuring Protestant rule in England and eventually Ireland.
Below is a picture of the Bogside, which I believe is now 97 percent Catholic. The Protestant minority would March to celebrate the Apprentice Boys and then the Battle of the Boyne. They did so with flourish which pissed the Catholics off no end.
Finally, inspired by the American Civil Rights movement, the Catbolics, seeing themselves as 2nd class citizens, fought back for the first time in August of 1969. This militancy spread to other cities.
The conflict exploded in 1972 after British soldiers fired on an unarmed Catholic crowd killing 14. It was known as Bloody Sunday. The British initially whitewashed the event until the British PM admitted total wrongdoing on their part in 2010.
An earlier set of executions also proved counterproductive to the Brits. At the end of the Easter Uprising of 2016, one that did not have broad support across the Republic if Ireland since many Irish had sons fighting in Europe with the English. But the British summarily executed the leaders of the uprising after shelling the revolt into submission. This enraged the general public and led to a more effective uprising that, in turn, resulted in independence in 1921.
One entry into the old city.
Within the old city are some significant churches and government buildings. Like Belfast, there were walls everywhere to separate Protestant and Catholics, some were more recent barriers built atop the ancient city walls. Even churches were not exempt from sectarian conflict. One Presbyterian church near the old wall was further protected by additional structures to prevent missiles and explosives from being hurled from the Bogside direction.
The court house in the above pic is a good example of the ongoing tensions. It was bombed 13 times during the Troubles.
Peace finally came in 1990s. David Hume won the Nobel Peace Prize, plus the Gandhi and Martin Luther King Peace Prizes. He managed to bridge the gap between the warring parties. In the Protestant church below, Hume, the Chief of The British Police forces, and the local Catholic Archbishop all gathered to commemorate the new and more peaceful era. A miracle indeed.
In the pics below are two of the many murals that are found through the Bogside. I’m not certain of the meaning of the second, but the first captures a British soldier breaking down a door looking for IRA soldiers.
Below is the city’s Guild Hall. Here, the Peace prizes won by David Hume are on display.
Hopefully, the Peace will last and sanity will remain. Only time will tell.
A short while ago I wrote about the Irish ‘Troubles’ in a blog. Below are a few reminders of that tragic period. 😥
The history of cultural conflict hiding as religious disputes is found in the art that is present throughout the city of Belfast. This mural of Bobby Sands commemorates his martyrdom in a British prison. His hunger strike in the early 1980s ended in his death after 70 days. Nine others followed his example.
The Catholic population of Northern Ireland has felt like an oppressed people ruled by another. There murals speak to the causes thay associate with around the world … the Palestinian and Cuban people
Some of the art you find in Belfast attempts to portray the joy they feel in their sport and their culture, despite their troubles.
The harshest reminders of the ‘Troubles’ is found in the walls that still separate the Protestant and Catholic communities. These walls are high, very imposing, and run for some 20 plus miles. At night, gates are still closed at 9 PM to prevent crossing across communities
The base of the walls are often quite beautiful, belying their tragic purposes. It is as if bright colors and dazzling design can obscure the hate and division symbolized by these attempts to separate people from one another.
If you look closely, the art contains messages of hope and peace penned by many who come to this tragic place as a kind of shrine to insanity. The desperate desire for peace is not easily quenched.
The Europa Hotel, a place frequented by those seen as oppressors, was bombed some 30 times during the ‘Troubles.’
I found out on this journey that the Catholic population recently emerged as a majority in the north for the first time. There has been peace since 1998 but no real reconciliation. The Protestant community feels they are losing their privileged position and, feeling threatened, are not happy. As we toured outside Belfast, it is apparent that smaller communities are divided by these ancient religious animosities, and have been for some time. You can tell their affiliation by the flags you see flying … either the ‘bloody hand’ or the tricolor Irish banner.
Final day in Dublin before heading north. A few highlights: First pic is of the parliament building of the Republic of Ireland, a self governing nation since 1922.
We also spent time in the Museum of Irish Literature. The Irish are enormously proud of their writers and poets. The next pic is of a first edition of Ulysses by James Joyce. It is sometimes considered the greatest work of the 20th century.
Spent some time in the National Gallery of Art. Like the Smithsonian complex in Washington, there are several separate galleries, all free. Some lovely pieces of many genres there.
There are parks throughout Dublin. Here is one.
Trinity College. Started by Elizabeth 1st in 1598 I think. Catholics were not allowed to enroll for several centuries. The library (see below) is a wonder. I’ve also shown the Harp of Bryan Boru, an early Irish king. Okay, it really isn’t his!
We spent time in the Museum of Archeology. Fascinating place in a gorgeous building. Several items pictured below.
We’ve had great weather and beautiful parks to explore. More than that, there is such a party atmosphere all the time with many outdoor places to eat and drink, music pouring out of many pubs, and much beauty. A fascinating city.
Last night as I heard so many languages and dialects on the thronged streets, I mused that I just might be in New York. Dublin is no longer a backwater city, as it was during my last visit in 1969.
This is the River Liffey, running through the center of the city. The Vikings first raided the place and then settled here in the 800s. It has been the site of British power and, more recently, the heart of the Republic.
Had a wonderful tour of central Dublin yesterday. Great guide. So much history of my tribe!
August is tourist month for sure. The Temple Bar district is hopping with people, pubs, music, and excitement. Dublin is far different than it was in 1969 … my last visit.
Public Service Announcement: If all goes well, I will be off to Ireland and Northern Ireland later today. This news was met with great excitement from my friends and neighbors. I had all kinds of offers to take me to the airport and nary a one to pick me up. I wonder why?
Some Wisdom to Share: Let’s face it, my so-called wisdom is shamelessly stolen from others. After all, is there anything at all that hasn’t been already said … and better than I possibly could? Besides, you are getting this for free.
I do well in the above list except for 6 -8. Not bad though.
After 8 horrendous weeks of taking accordian lessons, I knew I wasn’t a musician.
Nothing bothers me more than those who work to prevent the young from becoming critical thinkers and would turn our great universities into upper level tech schools.
Read, and then think or even discuss. Then read some more … and keep on!
We are often silent witnesses to our own moral compass.
Women: can’t live with them, really can’t live with them!
Finally!
Professor Tom may well post from the other side of the pond. We will see how that works.
The people at Gallup recently released some updated numbers on the political divide in America. Apparently, there are some substantive differences in beliefs and values. For some time, it has been clear that the MAGA crowd hate us ‘WOKE’ types with a vitriolic passion. Those on my side of the divide (at lleast the ones I know) much much less hate but a good dose of pity mixed with a form of paternal sadness for our less educated and enlightened bretheren. The fact that they support views clearly counterproductive to their self-interests and follow politicians who have never worked on their behalf (and I mean NEVER) leaves us scratching our collective heads. But there you have it.
Here are a few issues on which the ‘left’ and ‘right’ disagree (I’m not sure there is much of a center anymore):
DEMS REPUBS
General Issues:
Federal Govt. has too much power …………………. 31% 73%
Retain a strong trust in police ………………………… 31 60
Policy Questions:
In favor of a more universal health care system… 85 30
Protect environment over energy development.. 81 26
Favor stricter gun laws ……………………………………….. 84 20
Believe global warming is a serious issue …………. 87 35
Satisfied with state of race relations ………………….. 23 40
Values Issues:
Abortion should always be legal …………………………. 55 12
Divorce is morally okay ……………………………………….. 88 69
Sex between unmarried partners is okay …………… 82 63
Would accept a child-out-of-wedlock ………………… 82 61
Yes, there are real differences separating us. However, the visceral animus that separates us goes deeper than any divide on issues. It is rooted in basic world views, in essential personality attributes, and perhaps in our physical makeups. The gap will not be breached easily and now, with no external threat to bind us together, the center may not hold.
A word of caution, however. Some of these numbers have varied over time. Republicans had more faith in the federal government until Obama took charge. After several years of Trump propoganda, their faith in our central government has fallen into the crapper. One merely hopes they are not pining for a ‘strongman’ to bail us out. That’s what many Germans wanted in 1933.
As you know, I am befuddled by how the MAGA extremists view the world, all Republicans these days to be accurate. Take Ron Desantis … no, really, take him somewhere, anywhere! I used to live half the year in Florida, was even a legal Florida resident for a while. There was a time when I suffered under far right governors in both Florida (Rick Scott and then Desantis) and Wisconsin (Scott Walker). Talk about two living Hells.
Such politicians throw around the term ‘woke’ as if it were the equivalent to being a sociopath or a pedophile. No, they consider it much, much worse than being either of those despicable types. If afflicted with ‘wokeness,’ you are nothing less than Satan’s spawn. That is why Governor Desantis is on a crusade to eradicate this abominable evil from the Sunshine state. Hmm, being one myself (one of those ‘woke’ types), I wonder sometimes what I did to deserve such negative animus. One thing you can say about the contemporary version of conservative values, those clinging to the Republican faith can be nasty, especially since they often brag about being such nice, loving Christians. Perplexing indeed.
How odd that they should hate folk like me so intensly. I’m such a pleasant sort … a virtual saint in my own mind! Okay, perhaps I am not ready to be canonized by the Vatican, but I am reasonably harmless, that’s for damn sure.
But here’s the thing … in my own mind at least. If you look closely, the dispositions and perspectives of all those ‘woke’ types at whom the ‘right’ hurl their invective are rather special and surely pose little threat. Let’s look at some of the attributes associated with these dastardly ‘woke’ blokes.
If ‘woke,’ you are someone who reads books, not burns them. In fact, you revere the classics and hope the young will absorb their lessons, and to think through critically what might pertain to their own lives (or not).You don’t ban the very literature that elevates and educates us and, most of all, helps us to be critical thinkers capable of understanding our world a bit better.
You embrace and cherish science, not reject it and the people who labor to both better comprehend what is all about us and (more importantly) improve our lives. Science is not absolute truth, but the honest pursuit of truth according to rigorous methods that have been refined over a long time. Our journey toward greater understanding is one of the most sacred tasks we have, and is a faciliity which makes us unique as a species.
A malleable perspective on what we know is critical. A ‘woke’ individual is willing to change their minds when new and credible information becomes available. This does not suggest shallowness of thought. Quite the opposite, it suggests an appreciation of the complexity of life, and a desire to pursue more credible truths based on reason and evidence.
You understand and appreciate that most issues are not black and white. We do not live in a binary world. Some things seem set in stone, like the speed of light. Even there, though, quantum physics suggests tantalizing exceptions. That is the joy and mystery of life itself … the joy that comes with discovering new things and appreciating the complexity of all about us in this mysterious and marvelous universe that is just now opening up to our understanding.
A ‘woke’ person believes in equality of opportunity for all people. This does not mean you believe in some notion of absolute equality of outcomes. That ancient Marxist trope was a non-starter from the beginning. But a ‘woke’ iindividual would like to see everyone have a reasonable shot at the starting line of life. The ‘freedom to succeed’ American narrative is largely a joke when our individual paths through life are so hideously uneven.Sometimes, we all need a helping hand.
A woke person has empathy, or at least treasures it. What demarks a ‘woke’ individual from many on the other side is that the strive not to be a sociopath or a psychopath or a malignant narcissist. They can ‘feel’ what others are experiencing and facing. It is not ‘all about them.’Life is not a Dickensian horror show, or shold not be at least.
Similarly, someone who is ‘woke’ embraces cooperation, civility, and community. We recognize that collaboration is better than unfettered individualism. It is what marks civilization and is responsible for much of human advancement. Margaret Mead, the iconic anthropologist, argued that finding skeletons with serious injuries buried with other members of nomadic tribes was a huge step forward for the species. Our ancestors started to care for one another rather than let the weaker members die alone. Working together helped us advance in the past; It is the way forward in the future.
A ‘woke’ person respects and defends the rights of others. We recognize that ‘no man is an island.’ If we do not defend the rights of others, we have no rights ourselves. We all recall the saying about “they first came for the disabled but I was not disabled, so I kept quiet; then they came for the Communists but I was not a Communist, so I kept quiet; then they came for the Jews …” In the end, if we always look the other way there will be no one left to fight for us when it is our turn.
When you are ‘woke,’ you believe that the arts, our creative impulses, have value. You value both art and artists. Life is more than the mere acquisition of material things, it is mostly about experiencing those perceptions and feelings that elevate our minds and souls. We must encourage and support such activities that explore deeper meanings. He who has the most toys at the end is not the winner in life. He who has experienced life more fully and with deeper feeling is richer by far.
And a ‘woke person’ cares about humanity and the planet. Let’s face it, we are a fragile species existing on a lonely planet on the fringe of one galaxy among billions, or trillions of such worlds. As far as we know, we are special and alone. We have a duty to preserve the human experiment as a whole (not just one nation or race or our own peculiar tribe), and to do our best to be a good steward to this planet on which we live and upon which we depend.Perhaps, if we don’t screw things up royally, we just might be in the process of creating our own form divinity in a way, since we have no way of anticipating where evolution might lead.
There may be more but this is a damn good start on defining what being ‘woke’ is. Call me ‘woke.’ I embrace the label. I really cannot think of a higher compliment!!!!!!!!
