The bottom of the world…

We have some time today as we sail north along the coast of Chile. So, I thought I might cover a few moments enjoyed at the bottom of the world … the Cape Horn area. Though these seas historically were known as the graveyard of ships and mariners (especially in the days of sailing vessels), we experienced exceptionally calm waters … at least according to those who make this a routine port of call. It wasn’t until last night, after leaving Amalia Glacier, that we hit rougher seas once again.

This pic above is Ushuaia. A city of about 82,000 souls, the whole region now counts some 180,000 inhabitants. The larger region has grown by some 50 percent in the last 15 to 20 years. I suspect this growth has been generated due to the port being a key launch point for tourist visits to Antarctica. Ushuaia has the distinction of being the southernmost city on the planet.

It also enjoys exceptional beauty, being framed by the southern most west-east reach of the Andes chain. The adjacent peaks frame this settlement in a spectacular fashion. There is, however, only a thin stretch of land between the mountains and the sea available for development or habitation. That provides a limit on possible expansion. It is gorgeous but chilly throughout the year. High temps in summer occasionally hit the high- 60s, only if you are lucky.

The start of civilization here is attributable to the powers in Buenos Aires deciding this would be a good place to send incorrigible prisoners. After all, where could they flee? To the north stood the formidable Andes. To the south, the freezing waters. They were stuck.

The prison, closed in 1947, is now a museum. The 2nd pic above shows a typical cell as they were in the old days. They were small and must have been freezing for much of the year. In addition, the prisoners worked at various jobs. The museum contained many artifacts shaped the the more talented of the incarcerated. The final pic above is a shot of Ushuaia facing north. Gorgeous,  indeed, though the residents just might have experienced a touch of claustrophobia on occasion.

After leaving Ushuaia, we sailed though the inner passage (Beagle chanel). With barren landscape on both sides of the ship, the dangers faced by the old sailing ships is quite apparent. You make your way through a maze of barren islands that seem endless. They are striking but void of virtually all human or floral activity.

However, interspersed among the harsh, barren landscape are several glaciers. That is, we sailed though what is called Glacier alley. Enjoy the pics below. They hardly capture the beauty presented to us.

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As noted, we visited Amalia Glacier yesterday. I will touch upon that experience in the next installment.


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